The front middle upper bust point is just right on the spot on your body where the measurement was taken before. (if it's 9 cm from the neck and put it just like that).
I just made a simple dress (bust/sheath dress), made based on simple bustier pattern. I thought something wrong with my body. Then my teacher's word came in my head,"wear it correctly. It won't be fit unless it's correctly worn." I did it and voila! it's great!
At first trying last night, I tried it without (ehm) bra while the dress I made was patterned to wear bra. I mean bra sponge thickness is included in the 'pattern formula'. it was totally weird. this morning, i tried with shirt and bra.b (^o^)d
but there was something wrong with the waist and the hips...i thought my body had changed (i used some months ago measurement and i'm having a therapy now) until i retried again and those words of my teacher's banging in my head. It's great now...i'm wearing it...I'm not sure to take it off...hahahaha...I planned to wear it tomorrow but can't wait.
wearing (simple) bustier. If you ever purchased one and tried, make sure you tried it WELL. I mean, never expect by pulling the bustier up (or down) put it on your body, pull the zipper, then it will look ok. NEVER! make it RIGHT: bust meet bust PRECISELY. waist meet waist.
oh, and unless, the dress/cloth is made loosely with shoulder string to hang the dress on our body>> this will be easier ...but if it's custom and has 'fitting value', you may try what i say. don't just blame your tailor right away. some customers (sorry) are stupid sometimes (i was stupid, too...and i was just stupid when trying my batik sheath dress...hahaha).
if the bustier has "balen" or "plastic bone" inside, it will be easier to fit it precisely on the body but when it's not...it will be a little bit hard...if your simple bustier has the sponge already, DON'T USE ANY 'string-less' BRA ANYMORE! your bustier has 2 function already: as an outfit and as your bra.
If the pattern is fit made, then you may have not doubt of using it without bra. don't worry, it won't fall off (^O^). if it's not made properly...then...helloooooo...
Ok, that's my tips to wear simple bustier...